Electric Entry Step

    By Dan Oliver

Occasionally Electric Entry Steps (that extend when the coach entry door is opened and retracts automatically when engine is started) don't work the way they were designed to operate.   The most common problem is "My step won't retract so I can't drive my coach to repair facility".   TIP.....by laying on the ground and looking under the entry step assembly, you should be able to see the electric 12 volt step motor with a shaft coming out of it, attaching to the step mechanism.   Somewhere on that shaft (usually near the motor) will be either a clevis pin or cotter pin that locks shaft to motor so the steps operate properly.   By simply removing that pin, you should be able to push the step in by hand so the coach can be driven to service for repairs.   Be sure you secure the step in the retracted position with tape or a wire tie to hold it up while the coach is in motion. In most cases this allow you to move the coach, and not leave you stranded in a remote area without available service.   Another tip is to check the 12 volt step fuse in the coach wiring, and replace if necessary.

Hot Water Heater

    By Greg Brown

You get your RV already to go out camping.   You get to your site and are all set up. Everything is hooked up and seems to be working fine. Now, before you get to relax and enjoy the great outdoors, you need to wash up. You turn on the faucets and feel that great hot water, for about 3 seconds!   All you are getting now is just cold water. You start to think, "what's going on?".   Relax. This may not be a serious problem.   This is a very common situation that we come across.   It is very possible that, at some point, the winterization bypass valve was moved to the open position.   When bypassed, water that normally would go into the hot water heater, instead, goes into the hot water lines. What we need to do is to check to make sure the bypass valve is turned completely to the closed position.   This will allow the water to flow into the hot water heater.   These valves can be located in several different areas.   Some more common areas the bypass valves may be located include; water lines near the water heater, under sinks, near holding tanks, etc.   After the system has been winterized, and we are getting ready for the new travel season, we can forget to close them.   It's a good idea to include this on our pre-travel checklist.   It's good to have a consistent pattern for your checklist to avoid making this mistake and can help you to avoid unforeseen problems on your future camping holidays.   

Save your vacation!!

    By Phil Wild

All too often I get calls from people that have just started their vacation only to find that the generator starts and dies or won't start at all. Usually, this can be attributed to lack of use or improper storage. Most brands of generators suggest running the unit once a week.

Gasoline loses its octane as it sits. This causes gumming of the jets, which restricts fuel flow. To avoid this, use a product like Sta-Bil in the fuel before storing or if the unit will be parked for an extended period of time, such as a month or more. Also have batteries checked and replaced in a timely manner. Most batteries should be replaced every 3 years. If possible, use a maintenance battery charger while in storage to keep them from going dead. Refer to the battery Tech Tip on this site for a more detailed information on battery maintenance.

Air Conditioning & How It Works
    by Phil Wild 

One of the most common maintenance issues that is easily overlooked is cleaning the radiator. Dirt & debris will pass through the A/C condenser and restrict airflow through the radiator. This will cause the engine to run a little hotter but will usually greatly reduce the cooling ability of the A/C system. Simply take a garden hose with a sprayer when the engine is cool and spray through the radiator to clean it. It makes a huge difference. Vehicles driven on interstates need this done more often.

Travel Trailer & 5th Wheel Emergency Break Away Switch
   by Dan Oliver

This break away switch is located towards the front top frame rail of the travel trailer or 5th wheel, and is mounted to the frame rail.  This switch consists of a black box approximately the size of a pack of cigarettes with a metal cable lanyard coming out of the box.  It is electrically connected to the battery located inside the trailer (not the tow vehicle) for 12 volt power.  The metal lanyard is connected to the tow vehicle with a clip.  In the event the trailer or 5th wheel becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle, the lanyard is pulled out of the black box, which in turn activates a 12 volt source to automatically engage the trailer brakes.  This is a built-in safety feature to try and insure that the trailer will come to stop under it's own power without the assistance of the tow vehicle.  

After the trailer is stopped, the metal lanyard cable can be reinstalled into the black box by simply pushing the end of the lanyard back into the opening it was pulled out of.  On some occasions, if the trailer electric brakes are locked up while trying to tow it, you can push the end of the lanyard into the black box to insure that it is completely inserted all the way.  Many times this may be the only problem with the brakes being activated on their own.

It is important to note that most travel trailer & 5th wheel brakes are electrically operated. When 12 volt power is supplied to the trailer braking system, a magnet inside the brake drum (on trailers) contacts the drum surface, which in turn moves a mechanical arm connected to brake shoes.  The arm then expands the brake shoes to make contact with the brake drum surface, which in turn stops trailer. Very simple operation (it just sounds complicated)!

The Importance of Tune-ups on all Vehicles
   by Jason Reiter

Some things never change, such as the need for periodic and preventive maintenance.
A simple tune-up may improve an engine in the following ways:

· Easier to start
· Improve fuel economy
· Lower emissions 
· Restore lost power 

Any tune-up today should start with performance checks to confirm the engine's overall condition. These checks should include battery voltage, charging voltage, compression ratio (to identify problems such as leaky exhaust valves, worn rings, bad head gasket or possibly a bad camshaft). Engine vacuum should also be checked. Finally, the ignition timing should be checked even if it is not adjustable, to detect possible computer problems. The ignition timing will tell whether you are getting optimum fuel mileage and proper ignition firing of each cylinder at the proper time.

Cooling System Care for Automobiles
   by Sean Baker

Every automobile engine ever made requires a very basic element to allow it to run for an extended period - a cooling system. Even early automobiles utilized a cooling system of some kind. Both water and air cooled versions have been around for some time. I'd like to take a moment and discuss the most common cooling system found on today's vehicles; water cooled.

Water cooled engines have a cooling system comprised of 11 basic components: radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan, heater core, recovery tank, thermostat, radiator cap, freeze plugs, cooling system hoses and a water based coolant mixture. 

Coolant acts as both a cooling agent, corrosion inhibitor for the metal parts of the cooling system & radiator. It also provides lubrication for the water pump and hoses. It is the most critical and often over looked part of the cooling system. The coolant must be in excellent shape in order to protect and cool effectively. New coolants offer protection for well over 5 yrs / 100,000 miles. However, they should be checked for condition frequently, at 6000-9000 miles. If the coolant looses its anticorrosion ability it will allow the system to heavily corrode internally. If corrosion exists it can be seen by removing the cap and inspecting for corrosion inside the radiator core and neck. Any sign of build up indicates the anticorrosion level protection level needs attention. Using a coolant tester, you can determine the level of cold weather protection the coolant can offer. By removing some of the existing coolant and replacing it with 100% coolant you can improve the protection level.

The Radiators' function is to dissipate heat by exchanging it through an elaborate grid of thin, finely spaced fins that are attached to the core portion of the radiator. 

Radiator, hoses, heater core, thermostat and freeze plugs require attention only when the cooling systems' anticorrosion level is allowed to drop. Keeping the coolant in excellent condition will dramatically reduce the need to service the cooling system before 100,000 miles, and that's a good thing. Some failures to the working system are expected under normal wear and tear, but prevention can go a long way in this area.

The system is sealed and pressurized using a radiator cap and recovery tank (AKA: over flow reservoir) to control expansion. When the engine heats up to operating temperature the coolant expands, pushing coolant out of the radiator into the recovery tank. When it cools, it draws the coolant back into the radiator from the Recovery Tank. This explains why the level in the tank fluctuates between the "High Level" and the "Low Level". This exchange is influenced by coolant temperature, and the rating of the cap (always use the same rating that the manufacturer recommends for your engine). Cap replacement is required only if it no longer seals (rubber seal is damaged) or is releasing to soon (weak cap). This should be checked during regular coolant system servicing, approximately every 6000-9000 miles.

A thorough system check should take place every 6000-9000 miles in all climates (protection level, corrosion check, hose condition, fan clutch operation, fan condition, freeze plugs, cap and radiator). Coolant level should be checked at every fill-up. Coolant in engines with green coolant should be changed every 20,000-30,000 miles, based on condition. Long life coolants, (various colors usually reddish orange) will last much longer, but should be changed regardless of system condition between 100,000-150,000 miles (as recommended by vehicle manufacturer).

My Generator starts and runs but I don't get any 110 voltage. What could my problem be?
   by Jason Reiter

First, check to make sure that the breakers directly on the generator have not tripped. This can be done by pulling the cover off the front of the generator. The breakers will normally be located by the start/stop switch. They are usually labeled with a number indicating the amperage that is allowed through that circuit. The breakers can be one of two styles; one is similar to a spring loaded light switch, the other is a push button style. Both work on the same principle, and both can be easily reset.

Next, determine whether your coach has an automatic transfer switch or a 110 outlet and power cord. You can locate this information in your owner's manual, or check the back side of the generator for an output cord. If there is an output cord, the cord must be plugged into the outlet whenever the generator is in use. As a safety precaution, do not plug in the cord while the generator is running. Plugging the cord in with the generator running may cause physical damage to you and to the electronics and appliances in your coach .

If your coach does not have an exterior outlet cord, you probably have an automatic transfer switch, which does not require the operator to do anything other than start the generator. On generators equipped with an automatic transfer switch, the only component to check is the breakers (as stated above).  If this does not correct the problem, your coach will need to be taken in for service.

Finally, the generator will not run if it is incapable of producing 110 volts. If the generator starts and dies when the start button is released, there is a failure within the generator itself and will need to be looked at by a qualified technician.  The Customer Service Advisors or Technical Advisors at Coach-Net will be happy to arrange a service appointment for you.

I hope this information assists you in making your trips and excursions as pleasurable and hassle free as possible.

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The Truth about Batteries
   by Phil Wild

Did you ever drive somewhere in your vehicle only to come out and turn the key and it does nothing or just clicks? Why did that happen? Chances are your battery has expired. Batteries die a natural death. 

Batteries have a catch tray built into the bottom that collects particles from the plates that make up the cells in the battery. The plates slowly shake loose due to vibration and jarring while driving. These particles are conductive material which create an internal resistance within the battery. This causes the battery to discharge even when everything is turned off, or prevents the battery from taking a charge. This condition is the basis for the myth that putting a battery on concrete will discharge it. The plastic cases used today would not conduct electricity to allow a discharge from sitting on a concrete surface. 

A battery with high internal resistance is also harmful to your alternator, and may lead to alternator replacement. The best way to avoid a breakdown due to battery failure is to replace the battery in a timely manner. Most factory batteries should be replaced in 3 to 4 years. Trying to get more out of the battery will only leave you stranded.

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Do you really know how your RV refrigerator works?
   by Patrick Cipres

This article is basic information on the operating order of most RV refrigerators. There is a difference between your home refrigerator and the one in your RV. Your refrigerator at home puts cooled air into the box via refrigerant, which is run through a compressor similar to your home air conditioning unit, or the one in your car. The refrigerator in your RV actually takes the heat out of the box through a process called heat absorption. This process is achieved through a chemical reaction from a mixture of ammonia and hydrogen. As these chemicals are heated, the heat is actually drawn out of the refrigerator as it circulates through a tube system at the rear of the refrigerator. This is all done without any moving parts! That's why it is so important to have your coach level for proper cooling. It is also very important not to pack too much food inside the refrigerator.

There are three different energy sources available for the operation of your RV refrigerator: 120-volt AC, 12-volt DC, and LP gas (liquefied petroleum). All of these sources provide heat, which is needed for the unit to operate. LP gas is the most efficient way to cool, and 120-volt AC would be the second best. Battery power 12-volt DC can be used for a short period of time, but is not as efficient. On newer model units the thermostat control will automatically change from LP gas to 120-volt power (generator or shore power) as needed. This function does require a good 12-volt power source for operation. 

Ventilation also plays an important role for proper cooling, always make sure there are no obstructions at the rear area of the refrigerator and at the roof vent, if possible. Another often overlooked cause of poor cooling is the refrigerator door not being closed tightly, and a bad door seal (torn-ripped-dried out). So, make sure after having that late night snack of ice cream with chocolate syrup to "SHUT THE DOOR!" Remember - the refrigerator does a good job of keeping your perishables cold if used the way it was designed to operate. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Gas Chassis General Maintenance
   by Sean Baker  

The average motor home owner knows it's critical to perform proper chassis maintenance to insure prolonged reliability and performance. Although maintenance is a very broad subject, I'd like to cover a few key areas most people don't think about.

RV engine oil and oil filter changes should occur on a 3,000 mile schedule versus a 6,000 mile schedule. Most major manufacturers consider the RV application to be severe duty, and recommend a shorter service interval.

Recommended transmission servicing intervals vary with each manufacturer. Some recommend servicing at 21,000 miles, and others at 50,000 miles. Extended periods of high heat are common to motor homes, creating a need for shorter service intervals in order to extend the life of your transmission. Check your chassis owner's manual for your manufacturer's recommendations, and keep in mind when it comes to transmission servicing, sooner is better.

Rear axle service is usually recommended between 60,000-100,000 miles, depending on the manufacturer. You'll need to check to see what your manufacturer recommends. It's a good idea to have the fluid level checked at least every 15,000 miles. A good visual inspection for leaks at the axle center section and axle seals is recommended at every oil change. Any signs of fresh leaks, or an excessively low fluid level should be addressed as soon as possible. Keep in mind that many manufacturers are using a synthetic rear axle fluid. When adding fluid to a synthetic filled rear axle, synthetic fluid must be used. Mixing non-synthetic and synthetic fluids is not recommended.

Coolants have evolved dramatically, and now offer protection up to 100,000 miles. If your engine contains an orange or reddish color coolant, it is most likely a long life coolant. Even though longer protection is offered, checking the coolant level at each fuel fill-up is recommended. This goes for engine oil level as well. The standard coolant will be green in color, and should be drained and flushed approximately every 30,000 miles. 

Air filters should be changed as needed (excessive dirt and debris being the main reason for change) or every 12,000-15,000 miles. Having a clean filter means your engine will be able to build the power it needs by allowing the proper amount of air to enter the engine. The more restricted the filter, the lower the output, and lower fuel mileage could result.

Fuel filters have a recommend change interval of 12,000-15,000 miles. Keeping the fuel system flowing freely will help to insure longer fuel pump life. Fuel injected gas engines use high-pressure electric fuel pumps. The fuel pump is submerged in the fuel tank, which helps dissipate the heat it generates. A restricted filter in a fuel injected fuel system will increase resistance. Increased resistance will create more heat, due to the pump having to work harder to pressurize the fuel. This will shorten the life of the pump. Even though the manufacturer recommends a longer interval, most technicians who have been involved with motor home chassis repairs will recommend 9,000-12,000 miles intervals for fuel filter change. A new fuel filter is inexpensive insurance against fuel system related breakdowns.

Maintenance as a whole is very critical to obtaining long life and sustained performance of your RV. Although the information provided here is basic, it is intended as a reminder that maintenance goes beyond engine oil and filter change. The next time your motor home is due for chassis maintenance, keep in mind that the fuel, cooling, and brake systems need just as much attention as the drive train.

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A checklist prior to heading to a service facility
   by Scott Carpenter

Ever have one of those days when it seems nothing is going right? For example, you've just set up your coach in a new campsite and guess what? You have no power at any of your 120 volt outlets or any of your appliances. Before you panic, there are a few things you can check.

There are 4 basic items you can check prior to seeking a service facility.

First, if you are connected to shore power, you can check your source of power at the campground's connection. The problem may not be with your coach, but the campground's outlet may not be functioning properly. 

If you are running 120-volt power from your generator, check the breaker directly on the generator, usually located near the start/stop switch.

If the shore power and generator check out fine, check the main coach breakers. These look like the electrical breakers in a regular home. Different coach manufacturers place these breakers in different spots, but they're usually hidden in a cabinet.

Next, check the GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers. This type of breaker is located in the bathroom or in the kitchen (sometimes both). The breaker is located directly on the wall receptacle. The red button on the outlet is the reset. 

If these checks do not locate the problem, the RV will most likely need to go to a qualified service facility for further diagnosis.

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Brake shift interlock systems on Ford Motor Home Chassis
   by Pat Cipres

What is a brake shift interlock?  This is a safety system that Ford has incorporated into its motor home chassis as well as other Ford vehicles which will not allow the vehicle to be taken out of the park mode unless the brake pedal is depressed.

This simple safety device can prevent the vehicle from accidentally moving when put into gear. This system can be made inoperable if the fuse to the brake lamps has burned out.

Some of the more commons reasons for the fuse burning out are due to problems in the trailer plug or a shorted out stop lamp bulb. The electrical trailer plug (pigtail) and stop lamp bulbs should be inspected for cause of failures. The tow vehicle or trailer should be disconnected before a new fuse is installed. Remember to make sure the stop lamps are operational before driving unit.  DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE UNTIL BRAKE LAMPS HAVE BEEN VERIFIED AS FUNCTIONAL.   

Now let's say you get in your coach after a nice weekend of camping, and you want to move it up a bit out of the campsite to prepare to leave.  You start the engine with no problems, but when you attempt to move the gear selector into Drive IT WILL NOT MOVE. You turn off the engine and restart hoping something just didn't take.  When you try to put it in gear again, still no movement.  Stop for just a minute and try not to let your wonderful weekend end in disaster. This malfunction may be caused by the "shift interlock" failing. Follow these easy steps and you should be able to move your coach if the shift interlock is the problem.

1. Apply the parking brake and remove the key from the ignition.
2. Re-insert the key and turn it to the first position, which is the On position. Do not crank the engine .  Apply the brake pedal, and you should be able to move the gear selector to the "N" neutral position.
3. With your foot depressing the brake pedal and transmission in neutral, start the engine. You should now be able to shift into gear! If the gear selector is moved back into park you must repeat these steps.   

REMEMBER, back to the first part of this article...there is a reason the brake shift-interlock failed.  You may not have any brake/tail lights.  For your safety and the safety of others, you should have this problem repaired before hitting the road.

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Winterizing your Coach
   by Phil Wild

The first step in winterizing your coach is to drain the fresh water tank, water heater & water system.

Most coaches have low-lying drains in the water system, and also have a bypass valve for the water heater. The bypass may consist of a single valve that turns 90 degrees, or three valves at the rear of the water heater. After draining the water heater, be sure to put it in the bypass mode. 

Next, feed the water pump with nontoxic RV antifreeze. Run the pump until the antifreeze has run through the entire water system. When this step is done correctly, you should see the color of the antifreeze when opening each faucet and when flushing the toilet. Pour pure nontoxic RV anti-freeze down the sink & tub/shower traps. This will help insure that any water trapped there will not freeze and cause the pipe to burst.

Next, dump the gray water and black water tanks, making sure they are completely empty. Just blowing the system out with air is risky. If water ends up in a low area it will freeze & could cause the line to burst. 

To de-winterize your unit in the spring and prepare it for summer fun, simply run clear water through the system from a nontoxic hose until all traces of RV antifreeze disappear and the water runs clear.

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My engine starts and runs normally, but the generator and all 12 volt appliances and lights in the coach are inoperative.
   by Dan Oliver

Check to insure that your Auxiliary Battery switch is in the ON position.  This switch is usually located on the main entry area wall as you walk into the coach (most common).  It may also be located on the dashboard (marked AUX or Storage Battery), above the entry door in the overhead wall panel (also very common), or inside the battery compartment.  

In most cases, it's a basic "rocker style" on/off switch. However, if the switch is located in the battery compartment, it's usually a marine style battery isolator/cutoff style switch.  Some mid-level diesel coaches now have marine style battery isolater/cutoff style switches in the entry area wall as well.  Wherever the Auxiliary Battery switch is located, it is used to turn coach (house) batteries off during storage. Many people either forget to turn the switch back ON when taking their coach out of storage, or if mounted on the entry area wall, the switch gets bumped accidentally when entering or exiting the coach.

Simply turning the "battery disconnect" switch to the OFF position when storing the coach for any extended time helps keep the batteries ready for their next use. 

Also very important ­ check to be sure the battery water level in the coach batteries is at normal levels (usually above the battery plates when you look inside the cells). 

It's also a good idea to start the coach periodically to keep all batteries charged. These steps will aid in having all your batteries ready for use the next time you're ready to enjoy your coach.

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Disclaimer: Any technical advice or directions provided by Coach-Net and its providers are provided without warranty or any guarantee. Owners perform any maintenance or modification at their own risk.

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